OlympiaFJ60

A few posts back I introduced my “old” camping trailer and stated I was going to start to rebuild it. Here is the first installment of the rebuild process. It took some time to figure out how exactly I wanted to approach this. The old camp box was built on my M416A1 military trailer. While this would work again, I find I have use frequently for this little trailer as is. I decided a new, dedicated trailer was needed. The next step was to figure out whether it would be better to find a built trailer and make the box fit or build a new trailer to fit the box. I decided on the latter. After a few trips to Centralia Supply and Fabrication I had enough parts together to start the build. I decided on a simple ladder frame build from 2″x3″ tube steel. I chose to use a combination A frame draw bar that extends to the spring mounts. I had some old Land Cruiser springs and hangers so I used them.

For the axle I went to ABC Trailer Parts as recommended on the forum Ih8mud.com. Since it is going to be a little heavy fully loaded and for off-road use I opted for a 3500# axle with electric brakes. I think this will greatly improve the safety and drive ability of the trailer on the Highway and off-road.

I had the old fenders so I went ahead and used them. They are a little small for 31-33″ tires but I think they will work out fine.

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I recently replaced the glow plugs on a ‘96 Ford F250 pickup with 7.3l Powerstroke engine. This particular vehicle is also equipped with several Banks upgrades. I found some good articles over at powerstroke.org for replacing the glow plugs as well as a source for an entire “kit” from the powerstrokeshop.com to do the job right.

The drivers side was pretty straight forward but the passenger side was an little more complicated because of the inter-cooler piping and the Banks Brake. I started on the drivers side and removed the air inlet pipe housing from the compressor to the air cleaner. I then removed the brackets and bolts holding down the valve cover. There was enough room to remove the valve cover without removing the inter-cooler piping on this side. I then removed the valve cover gasket and the under valve cover harnesses. I had read several warnings about the glow plugs swelling or becoming carbon encrusted and stuck in the cylinder head during removal. One suggestions was to run some injector cleaner through the system before replacing the glow plugs to clean up the carbon. This truck has been running bio diesel for a while and no problems were encountered during the removal of the plugs. A 10mm thin walled deep socket is needed. The rockers are pretty tight so a thicker wall socket will get stuck. I replaced the glow plugs with the new Ford ones from the kit, as well as replacing the under valve cover harness and valve cover gasket.

As I said, the passenger side was a little more tricky. I had to remove the inter-cooler piping, the alternator and the Banks Brake mounting bolt closest to the valve cover. The back bolts on the valve cover near the A/C evaporator are a little hard to reach as well. With that done I was able to squeeze the valve cover out. Again I removed the valve cover gasket, UVCH and glow plugs replacing them all with new. After reinstalling every thing it was time to test. This truck will no longer need to be plugged in, even on moderate days, to start.

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I just finished the quick and easy installation of the 60 series tailgate storage lid from Wagongear.com, into my ‘87 FJ60 More information can be found at the original forum thread on Ih8mud.com. This conicals Kevin’s original design to final product as well as installations by many satisfied customers. It is amazing how much space is really hiding in there.

In the case of my installation it even straitened my concave tailgate.  I have an air powered body saw (a little smaller blade than jig saw) that easily cut the center out.  I had purchased it at Harbor Freight years ago.  Had it all installed in about 40 minutes.  I was amazed how badly bent my tailgate was in the center.  It closes a lot better now and the upper gate closes a little tighter to the body. Kevin has attemted to make this lid fit all 60 series tailgates, but the hole spacing differs slightly between different years. I only had to enlarge the four corner holes (on the tailgate not the lid). It comes with stainless steel button head allen screws, washers and locking nuts for a clean finish. I just have to replace a few bolts on the box I have in the back and shim it up 1/4″ or so to keep it from rubbing on the lid.

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 These are the links to resources I used when I did my 2FTBI conversion on my 1987 FJ60.  I will be posting an update to include things I changed on the TBI setup since I originally installed it.

How to pages

How To Build a GM EFI System - get a detailed ebook manual to insure success with your conversion.

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Well, it is about time to rebuild/resurrect my camp trailer design. I first built it about 5 years ago on the back of my M416A1 military trailer. It has a hot water heater, 20 gallon water tank, electric water pump and double sink.

I started by building a frame out of 1×1 thin wall tubing. This was placed on the M416 and attached to the stock mounting points (the trailer frame was never altered). After the frame was built, I skinned it with (heavy) 14 gauge steel. I think this was over kill. I the rebuild we will be removing this an using a little lighter gauge metal or aluminum.

The water heater is a standard RV type made by Atwood. It runs on propane. There are other models that are 3 way (120v, 12v, propane) but I thought this was too much for an off road trailer. We won’t be using camp grounds with hookups and the 12 volt draws too much current for regular use. It doesn’t really take long for it to heat up with the propane. I just start the water heater first and there is hot enough water by the time camp is all set up. If I were to do it again I would consider a hot camp water heater like the ones sold by Decker’s Hot Camp (also where I will get a heater for the tent space if I decide I need one).

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