OlympiaFJ60

After being in my shop for 5 years (but only using a decent compressor for 3) I have finally plumbed the shop for air a organized all those loose hoses I kept tripping over. After much reading I decided to go with Type L copper pipe. From what I could tell it is the second best pipe for running air in the shop. If you have the time and extra tools, consider using galvanized iron pipe. I chose copper over iron pipe because of the ease of assembly. I didn’t want to have to thread all the ends I cut to make it fit in my shop. But the advantages of iron pipe are quietness and cools the air (better heat sink) to condense the most moisture out. One other option I read about is PVC pipe. Some sites reported the ability of PVC to explode if damaged, sending sharp fragments flying through the air. I also heard of it’s ability to build up a static charge (especially if you dry your air).

The only difficulty with the copper is learning to sweat it properly, although this is much easier than it sounds. I looked around the internet and youtube and found many good demonstrations on sweating (or soldering) copper pipe.
For the bulk of the project (120 feet in my application) I used 3/4″ pipe with 10 of 1/2″ pipe used in the drain valves and quick disconnects. I decided it would be easiest on my project if I pre-assembled as many of the parts as I could. I started where the air takes off from the main line. I made some large U shaped pieces that go up from a T then turn around down for the drop to the quick connects. I continued with the quick connects for the hoses. Each one is at the end of a drop from the over head line and has a drain valve at the bottom of a receiver for the moisture. For the quick connects, I used a 45 deg elbow turned up from the pipe (last attempt to remove moisture). I finished by tieing all the pieces together with the main line and the drops. I put a 3/4″ ball valve where it connects to the compressor as a service disconnect.

A few more of the parts:

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I have had this project on the back burner for a while.  I just finished installing a lift in my shop (read more here) and was changing the oil on my FJ60.  Standing under the truck gave me a little better view and a different perspective of the project.  I am making a bracket to make a simple installation that does not require drilling, but wanted to get something working right now.

I started with a filter base and a filter adapter for my size filter.  Both are available from many online vendors as well as Napa or CSK.  You can also buy a complete kit that comes with both pieces and a section of hose.  I am trying to build my own kit, so I purchased everything separately.

The first part was to find a good location for the filter past.  I chose the frame rail just under the charcoal canister.  This is an easy location while draining the oil and is protected from debris.  I thought about trying to put it above the skid plate but couldn’t come up with enough room to make it easy.  I used one of the 8mm holes already in the frame and drilled a second hole and tapped for 8×1.25.  The filter base has 3 holes, but I figured just the 2 would be fine for now.

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I have been wanting a lift ever since we built the shop.  Now that I am getting a little more busy and doing a wide variety of repairs (and feeling old as my body creeks getting back up off the floor) I figured it was time to make the investment.  I did a lot of searching and some research into the different brands and models of lifts.  The 2 basic types common today are the 2 post and 4 post.  There are slight variations within these categories like the Over Head Post and Base Plate 2 post lifts.

 The 4 post lift is the easiest to install and doesn’t need to be anchored (but I would) to the concrete.  This lift is often used by car collectors to get a little more space out of a small garage.  They are stable and easy to operate.  The done side for service work is the tires stay on the lift so a “jacking bridge” is needed to lift the car/wheels off the lift.  Then you still have the lift in the way.

 The 2 post base plate lift has the hydraulic lines and equalization cables running under a “base plate” that runs between the posts.  The advantage to this lift is clearance above the lifting area.  You don’t have to worry about a large vehicle hitting the top support.

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In Preparation for my AirLocker installation in the coming weeks, I decided to get the compressor mounted. It took a little thinking to find the proper location for my application. I have dual batteries and a battery isolator. I did remove the AIR pump and associated valves and switches so this makes up some room. I also removed the carb cooling fan. This is were I decided to mount the compressor. The compressor is suppose to be mounted as high as possible and away from direct heat. Luckily I still had the duct for the fan so I used it as a template. I cut out a plate from 16ga and drilled holes for both the mounting points.

I then mounted the compressor to the plate using the supplied hardware (including the backing plate)?

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When I originally installed the TBI setup on my ‘87 FJ60 I used a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) from Jags that Run. While this was a good sensor and lasted many years, it never tightened snugly to the transfer case driven gear housing. This would cause a shaky speedometer needle when cold. Even after trying to shim it with a washer it wouldn’t tighten down. On a short trip to Capital Forest I had a stick get caught on the speedometer cable and brake the sensor off (forgot I didn’t have the skid plate on).

After searching around for an alternative I found Aurthur Allen, a manufacturer in Chicago. They make a very nice sensor with a cast hosing and solid brass fittings.

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