OlympiaFJ60 » Vehicles

FJ 60 Rust Repair

Brandon — Wed, 26 May 2010 04:12:46 +0000

I have been watching a few patches of rust grow on the Land Cruiser for several years. I was washing the truck a few weeks ago, it’s after winter wash. While washing the left rear quarter I noticed a big patch in the very corner blast off. It was a hole about 1″ by 3″ long. I was just finishing loading up the remains of an old FJ60 I parted/scrapped. For as much rust as it had, I was presently surprised to find the very corner I needed was intact.

I cut out the bad area and used it as a template to cut out the patch. Evidently I didn’t do to well measuring as I had to cut a little extra and double patch. After getting the patch about right, I tacked it in place, then went around, ever inch or so at a time to keep it from getting too hot, and filled in the missed spots. After that, I ground it down, filled with some “Liquid Metal” sanded and painted.

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It took a while, but wasn’t too bad for a first try. Hopefully it will last for a while.

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Communications Upgrades

Brandon — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 19:07:18 +0000

In my Land Cruiser I use a CB radio and Cell phone for most on road and trail communications. Around camp and hiking I use a FRS/GMRS radio. I decided to make a few upgrades in the Land Cruiser to make communication easier and more reliable.

For the cell phone, I have added a Wilson Electronics 3 watt booster and external antenna. At the time they didn’t have the cradle, but my old Motorola phone had an antenna port in the back. Now, they have a complete kit with external antenna, booster, wiring and universal cradle. The cradle has the inside antenna and will work with any phone, regardless of antenna port. I am using mine with the Motorola Droid. While just an external

antenna can increase cell phone reception markedly, the 3 watt booster really gets your signal back out to the tower. Even when I don’t have enough signal for voice communication, I can usually send and receive text messages.

I originally had the booster just sitting under the drivers seat, an extension for the outside antenna, and the cell phone plug. I have been using the cradle for a while and love it. I’m doing some other comms work (keep reading), so I have decided to relocate the booster the the rear quarter panel. The power connector is just long enough, I moved the extension cable from the outside antenna, to the inside antenna/cradle.

One other modification I made to the cradle was to add a small magnet to correspond with the Droids sensor, making it my in car navigation as well as communications device. I will write more on this in another article.

For the GMRS radio, I went to GMRSOutlet.com were I found the Icom F2821 on clearance price. This radio is capable of GMRS, Business and

70cm communication. I had it programmed for GMRS, but also got the programming cable and software. It supports both CTCSS and DTCS tones for privacy communications. Remember, CTCSS and DTCS don’t keep others from hearing your conversations, just keeps them from interrupting you.

Because of mounting space, I decided to get the separation kit to mount the radio next to the phone booster in the rear quarter panel. With a removable face, the controls can be mounted in front. The only problem with mounting the main radio unit in the back, is the power demands. It needs direct battery connection, or at least a 10 gauge wire with 20amp protection.

I also wanted to add a power point for an ARB Fridge. so I decided to run some big power to the back. I already have dual batteries, so getting enough power won’t be a problem. I am running some 6 gauge wire to the back. I already have a 12 gauge wire running for trailer power and auxiliary backup lights, but that’s not enough power. I installed an extra fuse block in the back. Both the positive and negative line to the radio needs a 20 amp fuse. The fridge is on a separate circuit, and the trailer charge wire will be moved to run from the last fuse on the block.

For the radio mounts I decided to remove the factory jack and tool kit. With my lift, the jack doesn’t do much, but I’m going to find a place to put it anyway. The mount for the jack is bolted in on the inner fender and floor of the truck. The Tool bag mount was tack welded to one of the supports. For holding the radios and fuse block, I bent a piece of stainless sheet I had left over from my Off Road Trailer kitchen. I also had some 1″x1/16″ bar for extra support. On bar was bent up to bolt into the lower jack mounting holes, the other runs horizontally from one inner fender support to the other.

Radio Mount before installation

Radio Mount Installed with Radios

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Camp Bug I gets a few new accessories

Brandon — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 05:21:45 +0000

Getting ready for a few camping trips I decided to update a several items on the trailer.

The first was to install a door for a little more storage space and so I can check on the batter charge condition without having to open the top and remove the inside shelf. I was able to find the correct size hatch on Ebay for a reasonable price.

I also installed an outdoor shower box for rinsing off and the occasional shower. I also have a shower enclosure and use the solar shower bag. I like using the bag because it prevents any one from over using the water. The shower will be plumbed into the lines going to the sink in the rear.

I also wanted to add propane bottle bracket. I kept looking (as others have) for the correct solution for my trailer. I was going to use the XL Quick Fists as they have and extremely high rating, but I decided I wanted the primary tank on the tongue rather than against the box. I ended up bending some 2″x 3/16″ strap on my harbor freight bender. Making 90* bends is about all I use it for and it does the job well. I made a 1/4 cage crossed with a full cage that is hinged on the top and uses a heavy locking clasp. It is bolted to the tongue.

For the spare tank I used the XL quick fist straps. They are just big enough for the smaller tanks and hold it quite well.

The last thing I did before the trip is the installation of the under body water tank and gray water tank. This opened up considerable storage space and lower the COG even more, as well as move the water weight centered over the axle.

The water tank is just a basic unbaffled 20 gallon tank. All fittings are customizable. I just put a vent, drain and fill fitting.

The tank was fitted up for marking holes then temporarily strapped up with plastic plumbers tape.

For the waste tank I decided to use a standard RV drain valve. Time will tell if this was a good idea. It sits pretty tight up to the frame behind the spring shackle. This tank came pre-molded with a 3″ drain and is tapered at the back, just enough to tuck up to the rear frame member. I had a 1 1/4″ fill and 3/4 vent fitting added. I got a 3″-1 1/2″ adapter and the valve at the local RV repair store and the ABS fittings at the hardware store.

For the tank straps I used some 1/8 x 1.5 bar, added some bends for soft corners and bolted it up to the frame using the same Rivnuts I used in the decking. This is how my Land cruiser gas tank is mount so I think it will be adequate for the trailer.

There is just about the same amount of room between the bump stops and the springs as there is between the axle tube and the tank. I may add a little aluminum skid shield to protect the hoses and fittings. This would be attached to the tank straps.

Here are a few pictures of the tank straps. Turned out pretty well. No sign of failure yet but the center of the water tank may need a little more support.

I was able to gain a lot of space in the trailer by moving the water tank underneath. I rearranged the batteries to help maximize this space.

Here are a few of the trailer in action on a recent camping trip to the Naches Ranger district.

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300,000 miles

Brandon — Sat, 05 Jan 2008 02:15:41 +0000

Well, it has happened. At 8:44 pm PDT January 3, 2008 my 1987 Toyota Land Cruiser turned 300,000 miles. While this isn’t the highest mileage vehicle out there, it is my first one to reach such a distance.

As irony would have it. It tripped the mark crossing the same bridge that we were on about 5 months ago when a heater hose split stranding us on our late night trip to Yakima. That was the second time in the trucks history with us that we had to have it towed. After an hour of trying to fix it, replacing the hose and refilling the coolant, the engine would not restart and I was forced to calla wrecker.

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We crossed the Mayfield Lake bridge on Hwy 12 and stopped on the other side for a few pictures (just to show that I’m a real cruiser geek). Thankfully my wife tolerates this madness.

This is the closest intersection. The odometer was at 300,000.6.

My wife and son tolerating me as I stand in the middle of Hwy 12.

Remote Oil Filter

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Buying a 60 Series

Brandon — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 03:03:48 +0000

I recently had a friend ask my about buying a FJ60. He and his wife recently had their second child. This topic comes up often on the IH8MUD.com forum . So I thought I would write down my 2 cents.
Having a child is exactly the excuse (or reason) I used to get started in Land Cruisers and get my 60.

A few things about 60s, as I have observed them.

Diesels were not available in the US, but Canada got them until 1987 (BJ60) with the 4 cylinder 3B engine and (HJ60) 6 cylinder 2H engine. They are at the age that they can now be imported into the United States, but I have no experience there. Non-North American engines are also available from few sources, G&S Cruiser Parts in British Columbia being one I am familiar with.

The US trucks also did not come with 5 speeds, but after 4/86 (I think), they came with a 4 speed that was the same length as the 5 speed so the swap is easy. The Canadian diesel trucks did have 5 speeds. The 5 speeds behind the B series engines use a different input shaft than the 5 speed for the H and F series engines. Don’t buy a 5speed out of a BJ to put in your F/2F. Earlier 4 speeds require modifications of transmission mount, drive shafts and tansfercase shift linkage. New 5 Speed (H55F) transmissions are available from Toyota for around $1895 (less if you hunt around).

Common body rust areas are around the rear fenders and the A pillars by the top of the windshield. If the A pillar seams have been leaking, look for rust in the floor pan too under the carpet. If you ever want some help looking at one let me know.

One note for future use with the kids. The rear seats didn’t have a shoulder belt. No big deal for child seats that just use the lap belt, but later on with the booster seats it can be an issue. I installed rear belts from an ’89 FJ62. Some of the earlier 60s have the threaded nut in the C pillar for the top of the shoulder belt, but the later (’87 in my case) did not. I was able to get a nut up there and it is very secure, so don’t let it be a deterrent if you find a nice later truck.

All 60s are carburetor. In ’88 they went to the FJ62, which had the 3FE port injection engine in front of an Auto tranny. Some of the first ones didn’t have power windows, but all of the later ones and the ’89/90 62s do.

I keep forgetting to take pictures of bad ones, but can get a picture from a clean one I just finished. It is common for the inner axle seal to leak on the front axle of a high mileage rig. It is also common to leak on one that has been rebuilt wrong. The inner axle seal leak allows gear oil to move from the front differential into the birfield joint area inside the knuckle. This mixes with the grease and becomes a soupy mess. Soon, the grease/oil mixture will start leaking out the wiper seals. Dust and dirt collect on the knuckle making a thick mess. Worst case, the gear oil will migrate out to the wheel bearings, leaking out the outer axle seals and soak the disc and brake pads.

I love driving the 60 and I think it makes a great family rig and I have used it as my daily driver for 6 years now. I should be turning 300,000 some time this winter, and have had it since 180,000.

I’ll keep adding to this as I think of things or they are pointed out to me.

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