Category: What’s going on

After being in my shop for 5 years (but only using a decent compressor for 3) I have finally plumbed the shop for air a organized all those loose hoses I kept tripping over. After much reading I decided to go with Type L copper pipe. From what I could tell it is the second best pipe for running air in the shop. If you have the time and extra tools, consider using galvanized iron pipe. I chose copper over iron pipe because of the ease of assembly. I didn’t want to have to thread all the ends I cut to make it fit in my shop. But the advantages of iron pipe are quietness and cools the air (better heat sink) to condense the most moisture out. One other option I read about is PVC pipe. Some sites reported the ability of PVC to explode if damaged, sending sharp fragments flying through the air. I also heard of it’s ability to build up a static charge (especially if you dry your air).

The only difficulty with the copper is learning to sweat it properly, although this is much easier than it sounds. I looked around the internet and youtube and found many good demonstrations on sweating (or soldering) copper pipe.
For the bulk of the project (120 feet in my application) I used 3/4″ pipe with 10 of 1/2″ pipe used in the drain valves and quick disconnects. I decided it would be easiest on my project if I pre-assembled as many of the parts as I could. I started where the air takes off from the main line. I made some large U shaped pieces that go up from a T then turn around down for the drop to the quick connects. I continued with the quick connects for the hoses. Each one is at the end of a drop from the over head line and has a drain valve at the bottom of a receiver for the moisture. For the quick connects, I used a 45 deg elbow turned up from the pipe (last attempt to remove moisture). I finished by tieing all the pieces together with the main line and the drops. I put a 3/4″ ball valve where it connects to the compressor as a service disconnect.

A few more of the parts:

I have been wanting a lift ever since we built the shop. Now that I am getting a little more busy and doing a wide variety of repairs (and feeling old as my body creeks getting back up off the floor) I figured it was time to make the investment. I did a lot of searching and some research into the different brands and models of lifts. The 2 basic types common today are the 2 post and 4 post. There are slight variations within these categories like the Over Head Post and Base Plate 2 post lifts.

The 4 post lift is the easiest to install and doesn’t need to be anchored (but I would) to the concrete. This lift is often used by car collectors to get a little more space out of a small garage. They are stable and easy to operate. The done side for service work is the tires stay on the lift so a “jacking bridge” is needed to lift the car/wheels off the lift. Then you still have the lift in the way.

 The 2 post base plate lift has the hydraulic lines and equalization cables running under a “base plate” that runs between the posts. The advantage to this lift is clearance above the lifting area. You don’t have to worry about a large vehicle hitting the top support.

I chose the 10,000# over head 2 post lift from CEM lifts in Monroe, WA.  Chris was very helpful in choosing a lift and provided good technical support when I had questions with the installation. This lift has a bar that crosses between the top of both posts to carry the equalizer cables, hydraulics and what ever else needs to go between the posts. I chose a tall one since I work on a lot of trucks and a van every once in a while.

The directions say it should take two people about 5 hours to erect the lift. I did it by my self in two half days. The first step was to lay out the placement and check the concrete thickness. The lift requires 4-6″ thick concrete for proper tightening of the bolts. I purchased a rotary hammer from Harbor Freight tools. They had one that would do the job for a little less than a 1 day rental would be. I used this to drill a test hole at the center of each post mounting point to verify the thickness of the slab. The rotary hammer was also used to drill the holes for the mounting bolts.

When I had the shop wired the contractor put in the power for the lift since I knew I would have one some day. The hydraulic pump runs on 230v 1 phase power with a 20 amp breaker. I used a generator type twist lock plug for a quick disconnect within reach of the controls (in case of emergency).

Running the hydraulics, filling the pump and adjusting the equalizer cables were the last steps in getting the lift operation. After a few cycles of the lift to get all the air out, I put our F250 Diesel truck on the lift to give it a test. No problem, I even cleared the bay door. Next I put my FJ60 Land Cruiser on the lift to check height. With the roof rack I was able to raise the lift to the top locking position with out hitting the safety stop on top and cleared the bay door in the back.

The last thing I had to to was rearrange my storage and bench locations to make working around the lift safer and easier. I’m sure this will be an evolution process as I find out what works and what doesn’t.

A few of the other items I need to make working on the lift easierare an oil drain, transmission jack and safety stand. The vehicle is essential when changing the weight of the vehicle once on the lift or doing work that takes a lot of movement. While the lift is very stable with the vehicle raised, it doesn’t take kindly to sudden shifts in weight.

 I did the first oil change on my wife’s car and my truck with the lift and I think I am going to really like having this, even for the little jobs.