Overland travel Trail Runs

Driving Northwest Forest Logging Roads

When driving the back roads of Washington you are likely to encounter all sorts of roads and vehicles. I would like to address “logging roads” through the forests of the Northwest.

Having worked in the woods for a number of years, I have become accustomed to driving logging roads and “dealing with” other logging road users. Weekends are a little easier but during the week logging roads can be down right dangerous to the unaware driver. There can be a wide range of vehicle traffic such as foresters in pickups to fuel and lube trucks servicing the heavy equipment at logging sites to loaded log and dump trucks. While drivers can seem rude at times, remember this is THEIR place of work. Their livelyhood relies on traveling these roads.

A few basic rules to follow while driving these roads are common sense. First of all SLOW DOWN and turn your headlights on. It may seem like you are the only one out there at times but 35 mph on a gravel corner can be really fast when that loaded logger lumbers into view, and according to the “law of gross tonnage” you will not be the winner. Many of the roads are not posted with speed limits, unless it is part of the county road system. 10-15 mph is a good speed for most locations with a narrow 1 or 1 1/2 lane road. Wider roads with long lines of sight and well maintained can be safe at 35 mph. Remember there are spur roads (short dead end roads) all along the way and they are often difficult to see from a distance. Headlights make it a lot easier to been seen as you pass from clearing to timber. If the oncoming car is in the sun and you are in the shadows you will be very difficult to see.

Second is to read road and warning signs. This can be misleading, at times as old signs are often neglegted and no longer a valid warning. Look for other “signs” too. If the sign says “Keep Out, active opperations” but the road has a layer of leaves and looks as though no one has driven it in a while you can assume operations are no longer active. If the road is well traveled and there are other indicators of a logging operation (strips of fresh bark, new rock, etc along the side of the road) then do as the sign says. If you are up berry picking and you encounter a sign that says the roads have recently been sprayed, look for a different berry patch. Chemicals used on roadsides are not hazardous to us in the doses you will find, but who like fresh fruit covered in weed killers. Lastly, plan on staying out of the woods during HIGH fire danger.

Active logging roads are often open to travel, even during the day when trucks are traveling it. Look for a sign that has the CB channel (you have a CB don’t you?) for the road and make not of the road name or number. Number three is, if you are going to travel logging roads, get a CB radio. They are inexpensive and are available at Radio Shack as well as other online and local electronic stores. Tune to the proper channel and listen for traffic. If a channel is not marked start at ch14 for main haul roads, ch12 is often used on secondary haul roads as well as ch13. Call out your position as you start up the road (I will use C-line as a generic road name) “in bound c line at the black top”. Look for numbers along the way either painted on threes, stumps or rocks as well as little signs tagged to trees. These are road markers used to identify the position of various vehicles along the road. If on your way in you pass a 2 painted on a tree call out “”inbound c-line marker 2”. Also listen to were the other vehicles are. “Loaded logger number 4 outbound (or east/west/north/south depending on road)” means you should start looking for a good turn off before you meet up with the truck.

Last, keep to the right. Theres the basics.

I found some good info on CB radios over at Roadtrip America.

If you have other advice or experiences with logging roads, please contact me or comment. I would also like to start a list of common CB channels used on main logging roads in the Northwest.


Wagongear tailgate storage lid

Tailgate lid installed

I just finished the quick and easy installation of the 60 series tailgate storage lid from, into my ’87 FJ60 More information can be found at the original forum thread on This cronicalls Kevin’s original design to final product as well as installations by many satisfied customers. It is amazing how much space is really hiding in there.

In the case of my installation it even straitened my concave tailgate. I have an air powered body saw (a little smaller blade than jig saw) that easily cut the center out. I had purchased it at Harbor Freight years ago. Had it all installed in about 40 minutes. I was amazed how badly bent my tailgate was in the center. It closes a lot better now and the upper gate closes a little tighter to the body. Kevin has attempted to make this lid fit all 60 series tailgates, but the hole spacing differs slightly between different years. I only had to enlarge the four corner holes (on the tailgate not the lid). It comes with stainless steel button head Allen screws, washers and locking nuts for a clean finish. I just have to replace a few bolts on the box I have in the back and shim it up 1/4″ or so to keep it from rubbing on the lid.

Space gained

Great work Kevin.


2F TBI – Links Page

These are the links to resources I used when I did my 2FTBI conversion on my 1987 FJ60. I will be posting an update to include things I changed on the TBI setup since I originally installed it.

How to pages

How To Build a GM EFI System – get a detailed ebook manual to insure success with your conversion. GM ECM tech info

Tom Quinn’s 2F FI Install


The Moates.Net Web Site


Painless Wiring installation manual

Turbo City sells Performance Directly to You

White Racing Marine

Affordable Fuel Injection

Centech Online Wiring and Automotive Accessories

Fuel Injection Wiring Harnesses

Howell Engine Developments, Inc. Home Page

Stealth Conversions Price List

MegaSquirt – Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling & Grippo

OBD-2 Vehicle Explorer Scan Tool Browser

Painless Wiring Installation Manual Home Page

Tuning Links – How to info

WinALDL – the Windows 160 Baud ALDL Reader!

TunerCat – bin editor


Common GM part numbers


Throttle Body Injection 60101 & 60201
Main Computer 1227747 or 16121154
Brake Switch 25524845
Neutral Safety Switch 15705308
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor 16137039
Electronic Spark Control Module 16128261
Fuel Pump Relay(Style 1) 14078915 or 212-307
Fuel Pump Relay(Style 2) 14089936
Coolant Temperature Sensor 25036979
Knock Sensor 10456018
Oxygen Sensor AFS 21
Oil Pressure Switch 25036553 or D1818
Vehicle Speed Sensor PPP 60115
Distributor to Coil Wiring 12039177
Coil Power/Tach Pigtail 12101896
EGR Solenoid 1997111 or 214-331
Prom 16139566
Cal-pack 16060836